Barbados Rum & Foursquare

Rum is the alcoholic spirit obtained by distilling fermented molasses a valuable by product of the manufacture of sugar cane. The production of rum originated in the 1640s in Barbados, the Dutch having brought sugar cane to Barbados in 1637. The Dutch occupied nearby Pernambuco (now Recife) in Brazil. Sugar cane and sugar making had been there for about a century but the Dutch occupation of Pernambuco was heavily resisted, eventually being expelled in 1654. Setting up sugar production in Barbados was probably done by the Dutch to protect their valuable trade. Richard Ligon (1673), the earliest historian of Barbados records:

“At the time we landed on this Island, which was in the beginnings of September, 1647, we were informed, partly by those Planters we found there, and partly by our own observation, that the great works of Sugar-making, was but newly practiced by the inhabitants there. Some of the most industrious men, having gotten Plants from Pernambuco, a place in Brazil, and made trial of them at the Barbados;”

The earliest record of rum distillation anywhere also comes from Ligon:

“The drink of the Island, which is made of the skimmings of the Coppers, that boil the Sugar, which they call Kill-Devil.”

Ligon observes that by the time he left in 1650 sugar production had become very efMicient and proMitable. By this time, it was common for large sugar plantations to have still houses.

“As for distilling the skimmings, which run down to the Stillhouse, from the three lesser Coppers, it is only this: After it has remained in the Cisterns, which my plot show, you in the Still -house, till it be a little sour, (for till then, the Spirits will not rise in the Still) the Pirst Spirit that comes off, is a small Liquor, which we call low-wines, which Liquor we put into the Still, and draw it off again; and of that comes so strong a Spirit, as a candle being brought to a near distance the Spirits will Ply to it.”

The Dutch, experts in distillation at the time also brought these techniques together with sugar technology to the Island. It is believed the name rum was derived from the word ‘rumbullion’ meaning ‘a great tumult’ which seems likely considering its well-documented effects. In 1651, we have the only known link between rum and rumbullion.

Giles Silvester, a resident of Barbados wrote: “the chief fudling they make in the Iland is Rumbullion, als Kill Divill” The earliest use of the term ‘rum’ is in a Barbadian plantation deed from 1658, which listed Three Houses Estate as having “four large mastic cisterns for liquor for rum”.

The Golden Era

Ligon records that some Barbados Rum “fell to the ships and is transported to foreign ports and drunk by the way”. Maritime tradition may have thus helped spread the taste of rum to the Atlantic world. The 18th century was the golden era for Rum. In 1768, on the eve of American Revolution Barbados exported a remarkable 6m litres of rum, two-thirds of it to the American colonies where Rum was the drink of choice. By 1741, Rum imports from Barbados and Jamaica to England exceeded Brandy imports and would do so for the balance of the century.

“Barbados…home of the famous spirit known as Rum which by some persons is preferred to Brandy…It is said to be very wholesome and therefore supplied in the place of brandy in punch. Indeed it is much better than malt spirits and the sad liquor sold by our [English] distillers”

John Oldmixion, Colonial

Historian 1708

The early threat of rum to brandy interests in France led to the Royal Decree of Louis XIV in 1713 banning all non grape based alcoholic beverages. This act would set off a chain of economic events that would ultimately lead up to the American Revolution. In 1776, North American ports were closed to most British colonial traders and the rum trade was devastated. Barbados in particular was hard hit. New American nationalism associated Barbados rum with colonial dependence and led to the growth of American Whiskey, which was also aided by the removal of the whiskey tax in 1802. In short order, whiskey rather than rum became the American drink of choice. The loss of the American market had a long lasting effect on Barbados rum exports and the 19th century was one of continued decline.

Smuggling during prohibition saw Barbados rum exports rise from 27,000 litres in 1916 to 661,000 litres in 1922 almost all recorded as being shipped to the “British West Indies”, that is The Bahamas to facilitate eventual smuggling to the United States. Ironically, prohibition would once again reacquaint Americans with the taste of Barbados rum. Rekindled

Rum exports would grow significantly through the latter half of the 20th century and the Island’s revenue from rum would surpass sugar in 2004 and every year since.

Foursquare

Foursquare dates to the 1730s when it made sugar syrup and rum. Converted to steam in 1867, it became a full-fledged sugar factory until its closure in 1988. The Seale family, independent blenders and bottlers of rum since 1926 acquired the historic Foursquare property in 1995 and once again the site was returned to rum making.

Today’s the island leading local rums ‘Old Brigand’ and ‘ESA Field White’ Rum are distilled, aged and blended at Foursquare in addition to the historic ‘Doorlys’ range which is exported globally. Limited signature releases of the Distillery are released under the Foursquare label and are some of the most sought after rums in the world.

The provenance of Barbados rum is a legacy that lasts through to this day. In 2016, Foursquare won the Rum Trophy and the award for Rum Producer of the Year at both of London’s leading spirits competitions in an unprecedented double. At the International Wine & Spirits Competition in 2016, Foursquare dominated with Mive of the nine Golds in the rum category from over a hundred global entries. Earlier this year, Foursquare took the Rum Trophy and the Rum Producer award for the second year running at the International Spirits Challenge with six Golds.

http://www.rumsixtysix.com